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My First Experience of Manuel Antonio

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Manuel Antonio from 2001 Until Now

I remember my first experience of Manuel Antonio back in 2001. I was working on a business deal in San Jose and I had some time over the weekend for a quick adventure. So, I asked my Nicaraguan buddy, Yuri, about Manuel Antonio. He told me he could take me there and that I definitely should see it.

So, off we went…

Back then getting to Manuel Antonio was quite a different experience than it is today. There were two one-lane and very rickety bridges you had to cross. The traffic crossing those bridges would back up forever. From time to time, during the rainy season, the bridges would be completely inundated and impassable. Nowadays, there are new two-lane bridges that make the trip much easier and a lot less stressful.

I remember that Quepos, the little fishing village one has to pass through before arriving at Manuel Antonio, gave me the impression of being just that, a dirty little fishing village. It remained that way for years. These days, however, with the ongoing development of Marina Pez Vela making an impact, Quepos has become an attraction in itself. Quepos now offers many accommodation options that are quite nice and more economical that what you will find just on the other side, in Manuel Antonio.

As soon as you get though the busy streets of Quepos and start heading up the hill and then down to the beach, what strikes you is the jungle. Up until that point, I’d seen a lot of green in Costa Rica, but nothing like this. The jungle overwhelms you. It brings you to the full realization that you’re definitely not in Kansas (or, for me, South Carolina) anymore.

Back then Manuel Antonio had already arrived on the scene as one of Costa Rica’s main tourist attractions. However, the development was far less dense than it is today. Nevertheless, there were numerous places to stay. Yuri and I had taken off on an impulse, without booking anything in advance, thinking we’d just wing it once there. It was the weekend and the high tourist season, so place after place was booked solid. We finally arrived at this one small hotel overlooking the ocean. I believe it was called La Roca. It’s still there. The guy at the reception told us they did have one room available, but with only one king-sized bed. Yuri and I had no intention of sleeping together and asked if there was any possibility of adding another bed. The guy looked at us oddly, as if wondering what the hell for? Little did we know that at that time La Roca was a hotel that catered mainly to homosexuals. In fact, Manuel Antonio made a name for itself initially as a get-away for gay people.

These days it’s much more than that, as high rollers, families, romantic couples, young backpackers, and everything in between, make Manuel Antonio a must-see Costa Rica destination. Since that first visit I founded and still operate a vacation package business and perhaps some 80% of our tours included Manuel Antonio as a destination.

Of course, the main attraction is the national park and I will never forget my first experience of it. Since then, I’ve had many others, but that first one was really special. We hired a guide to walk through with us and one of our first nature encounters was a large boa who was in the process of swallowing an almost equally large iguana. That shouldn’t have been surprising as there were iguanas literally everywhere. And the monkeys, my god, the monkey’s. Yuri had told me a little about the park, but nothing prepares you for the intensity of the biodiversity you come face to face with in that place. There’s no wonder that it’s one of Costa Rica natural wonders and its most popular national park. That’s saying a lot when 25% of the entire land area of the country is basically some form of national park.

Since my first experience of Manuel Antonio I’ve had the good fortune of visiting Manuel Antonio countless times. In fact, I live only about an hour away from it in Perez Zeledon. It seems that every time you go there now there’s something new, either a new hotel, restaurant, bar, or club. And then there’s the incredible development of the Marina Pez Vela, which is now one of the most upscale resort locations in the country and it continues to expand.

And yet, even with all that development, Manuel Antonio still manages to make you feel like you’re really in the deep and dark jungle of Costa Rica. That’s because when you’re there, you really are.

Let’s hope things stay that way!

Here’s a photo gallery of one of my early visits…circa 2003, I believe (hotel pictured is La Mansion Inn, one of my favorites)…

Manuel Antonio

Manuel Antonio Growth – Where Will it Go?

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Manuel Antonio Growth

Where Manuel Antonio growth will go is a very good question. The road that leads from Quepos down to the National Park is about as densely developed on either side as it can be. To the west of that road is the Pacific ocean. Much of the immediate east side, behind what’s already there, is not developable, nor really even accessible.

There’s not a whole lot of room for Quepos to expand. The pueblo itself is getting a shot in the arm, economically, by the new Pez Vela Marina, which is undergoing rapid commercial development. But area-wise, the only direction really for the entire Quepos/Manuel Antonio are to grow in is to the east of Quepos and the Costanera.

Currently there’s not a whole lot going on in those locations. To the east of the Costanera, the area behind the hospital and the Quepos airport (Aeropuerto La Managua), there are popular tico barrios, such as Lomas del Cruce and Lourdes. Could those barrios one day become “gentrified” gringo enclaves, the way many tico barrios up in the mountains around places like Dominical, Ojochal and Uvita have become?

Well, it’s certainly a possibility!

One thing’s for sure, the impetus for growth is there. More and more expats will be looking at this area, with its easy flights from San Jose and its 5-star marina, as the place to call home. Developers will surely take notice and be on the lookout for good, cheap and plentiful land. I believe the locations where they will find that available are those tico barrios to the east of the Costanera. Developments on the “high ground” in those areas will feature easy airport access, ocean views, and quick access to Quepos and, of course, the gorgeous beaches of Manuel Antonio.

Recently I had a conversation with my old buddy Cornelius. I’ve known Cornelius since way back during my first visits to the area in the early 2000’s. Back then he was first a bartender and later manager at the famous La Mansion Inn, which was always one of my favorite places to stay while in the area. It still is, by the way, and has always been a favorite of many of my vacation customers. There’s nothing like the views of the bay from the pool area and I love the cool bat cave bar!

Cornelius, or Corky, is now the marketing manager at Hotel Kamuk, the largest and one of the oldest hotels in Quepos. Over the years he has become a real VIP, politically and otherwise. Someone you definitely want to know. Plus, he’s just an all-around great guy. He told me that growth in the area will definitely go in the direction of those tico barrios out behind the airport and hospital. He took me for a quick tour as I had never had reason to go over there before. That’s where Manuel Antonio growth has to go, Corky informed me!

There is only so much density that the “jungle road” that leads to the park can handle before it begins to really take a toll on the rich biodiversity that draws people to Manuel Antonio. Manuel Antonio growth needs to spread out a little and going east is the way that can happen without damaging the biodiversity and ambiance with too much additional high density.

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The Evolution of Quepos

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The Evolution of Quepos

Quepos has been a “sleepy” little pueblo for as long as I can remember, but lately it’s waking up! The evolution of Quepos, from sleepy little fishing village to prime tourist destination, can be summed up in a name…

the Marina Pez Vela.

For many years Costa Rica had only one true world-class marina, the Los Sueños marina in Playa Herradura. For years there was talk of one taking shape in Playa Flamingo in the Guanacaste region. But that talk never seemed to evolve into anything concrete. Then all of a sudden the secret was out that a new marina was to be built in Quepos.

Marinas are difficult things to develop in Costa Rica. The government, as well as the local population, tend to view them suspiciously. There is always the concern about the potential for negative environmental impact that marina development poses. The locals also view marinas as a sure way to change the entire complexity of their communities, from those dominated by locals, to those taken over by gringos with the big bucks. And when that happens, the price of life tends to rise for everyone.

Nevertheless, it was inevitable for a world-wide tourist phenomenon like Costa Rica, whose very name means “rich coast”, to attract marina development. If you own a luxury yacht, why wouldn’t you want to sail it into port in Costa Rica?

Unlike the situation in Flamingo, the Marina Pez Vela did actually take shape, albeit slowly. These days, however, the pace of its growth has definitely ratcheted up a notch or two.

My first visit to the marina several years ago didn’t impress me that much. However, a more recent visit certainly did.

The Evolution of Quepos

The marina is now home to a wide variety of shops, restaurants and tourist venues. They’ve built a new large parking deck. There seems to be a whole lot more luxury yachts in port than I remember from before. The whole place has become alive with excitement and activity. And that has the entire community of Quepos buzzing as well.

The Evolution of Quepos

I talked about it all with my old friend Cornelius Mesen, the marketing manager of Hotel Kamuk, the largest and one of the oldest hotels in downtown Quepos. I asked him if he’d seen much of a tourist effect from the marina. Cornelius told me that had not happened as of yet, but he envisions that great and positive change is on the not so distant horizon.

Most tourists bypass Quepos and make a b-line to Manuel Antonio, with its gorgeous white sand beaches, plethora of ritzy boutique hotels, and super cool restaurants, bars and shops. These days, however, Quepos is offering more and better accommodations than in years past. Hotel and Casino Kamuk is definitely an example.

The Marina Pez Vela will surely put Quepos on the tourist map. It has long been that bustling and dirty little fishing village one had to endure before arriving to the main destination of Manuel Antonio.

However, in the future, the evolution of Quepos is surely for this place to become a noteworthy tourist destination of its own right.

the-definitive-guide-ebook-cover-small

Hey, my new book The Definitive Guide to Costa Rica Expat Living is now live on Amazon. If you’re thinking about making an escape from the rat-race, whether for political or mental and physical health reasons, or all of the above, The Definitive Guide to Costa Rica Expat Living was written just for you!

Get the Book!

Manuel Antonio In a Nutshell

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Manuel Antonio in a Nutshell

This post is the lead-in to a series I plan to do on Manuel Antonio. This one offers a Manuel Antonio overview, or a Manuel Antonio in a Nutshell…

Wait, It’s Not on the Map?

Manuel Antonio is a tiny strip of tropical terrain that extends out into the Pacific just outside of the town of Quepos, on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast. It is located in the province of Puntarenas and in the canton of Aguirre. Costa Rica’s coastal highway, known as the “Costanera”, stretching from Orotina to where it meets up with the Pan American Highway in Palmar Norte, runs right by the outskirts of Quepos. This is a very well-maintained and paved stretch of highway, perhaps one of Costa Rica’s best. So, getting to Manuel Antonio from San Jose, a trip of only about 100 miles, is quite easy and these days takes roughly 2.5 hours. Playa Jaco, another popular tourist beach, is about an hour away to the north. Playa Dominical, a popular beach with surfers and nature enthusiasts, is about a half-hour south. There is also a domestic airport just outside of Quepos, with multiple daily flights from San Jose that are are quick and affordable.

A Few Things You Might Not Know

If you look on the map for Manuel Antonio, you’ll likely only see the little town called Quepos. That’s because Manuel Antonio is really just the name of the small, but wildly popular, national park that sits at the end of the tiny strip mentioned above. People often get confused on this point, but in a sense, Quepos and Manuel Antonio are the same place. However, in many respects, they are vastly different.

Quepos is a small town of around 20,000 inhabitants. The name originates from the indigenous people that inhabited the region during colonial times. Quepos is primarily a fishing village. However, it has grown over the years and now features a marina, as well as many dining, shopping and nightlife options for tourists.

The Park

Manuel Antonio in a Nutshell

The big tourism draw in Manuel Antonio is, of course, the national park. The park was created in 1972 and is the smallest, but most popular, of Costa Rica’s national parks. The park encompasses roughly 4,000 acres of land. In comparison, Corcovado National Park contains 104,900 acres. It is home to many of the jungle animals that Costa Rica is famous for. In the park you’re very likely to come across three species of monkeys: the spider, capuchin (white-faced) and howler varieties all live there. You can also see sloths (both two and three-toed), boas, pizotes (in the raccoon family), 100’s of bird species, and many other animals. In the tiny area of the park there are some 109 species of mammals and 184 species of birds. Because of the small area, it’s quite easy to cover many of the hiking trails throughout the park in a day and you’re almost guaranteed to see animals. After all, they don’t have much room to hide! That’s why the park has been such a hit with tourists and has made Manuel Antonio one of the “crown jewels” of Costa Rica tourism.

In addition to nature watching, the park features some gorgeous beaches. The four beaches in the park, Espadilla Sur, Manuel Antonio, Escondito and Playita, are some of the best in the country. At 236 feet in height, Cathedral Point, which lies between Playa Espadilla Sur and Playa Manuel Antonio, provides a panoramic view of the surrounding area and blue ocean waters. In 2011, Manuel Antonio was listed by Forbes as among the world’s 12 most beautiful national parks.

What Else is in Manuel Antonio?

Manuel Antonio in a Nutshell

Okay, so we’ve talked about the major attraction, the beautiful national park, but what else? The draw of the park has created one of Costa Rica strongest tourist attractions. As a result, Manuel Antonio has grown by leaps and bounds in a very small space of time and land area. There are now multiple hotels of all ratings, from hostels to 5-star luxury resorts. There are numerous restaurants, bars and discos providing a vibrant nightlife, as well as many funky boutique shops. Street vendors peddling a wide variety of home-made arts and crafts are also a common site. Manuel Antonio has pretty much everything the tourist could want and expect from a Costa Rica beach resort location. Despite the growth, Manuel Antonio has been able to maintain its natural tropical feel. You are very likely to wake up from your hotel room to the sounds of the monkeys playing in the trees just outside.

There are many area attractions as well. From extreme sports like white water rafting on the Naranjo River, to more gentle river cruises around the Damas Island Mangrove Estuary or on the Rio Savegre. There are several popular canopy tours in the area. Other popular tours include snorkeling, ATV, waterfall hikes, horseback rides, local culture tours, etc. The national park can be experienced with an organized tour, or you can just go on your own. Naturalist guides can be hired for a modest sum at the park entrance. It always pays to trek through the park at least once with a guide, as they can show you things you’d never know were there on your own. Manuel Antonio is a Costa Rica natural playground with a touch of the high class, which is why the tourists keep flocking there year after year in increasing numbers.

The Future Outlook

Manuel Antonio in a Nutshell

Manuel Antonio has changed over the years, but in many ways it retains its earlier remote tropical ambiance. In recent years developers have moved in and have begun to carve up the landscape with private enclaves for the wealthy. The small amount of developable area requires that development be relatively dense, compared to areas like Dominical to the south.

Manuel Antonio has become one of Costa Rica most upscale resort areas, more-so than nearby Jaco or Dominical. It is probably not the preferred destination for tourists wanting to do Costa Rica on the cheap. Where will this growth lead Manuel Antonio in the future?

One thing’s for sure, if your talking about the “tiny strip”, as I’ve referred to it a couple times above, there’s just not much room for a lot more development and growth, unless it goes upwards and becomes even more dense. That type of development will likely be met with fierce local opposition. Proponents of continued growth will have to play a delicate balancing game between development and retaining the natural wonders that attract people to the area in the first place. Much of the growth will likely have to go towards Quepos and the surrounding area, as a result of the fact that there’s more room to grow in that direction.

I’ll conclude this piece on Manuel Antonio in a Nutshell with this thought…

Manuel Antonio is surely to remain one of Costa Rica’s top tourist attractions for years to come. And its aura as an attractive location for expats and foreign investors, will likely only increase as well.

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